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Saturday 17 December 2011

Modern day 'petticoat' {tutorial}

 
I'm the kinda girl that doesn't really like clothes that are see through or really low cut tops, but so many dresses fit both of those categories. This is my fix to the problem. A very simple dress that can be worn underneath another dress, while still keeping it cool, but preventing light from shining behind and leaving nothing to the imagination.

I was going to a Disney-Pixar themed 21st, so being a money saving student I used my 'petticoat' to double as an 'Eve', from Wall-e, costume.

So what do you need:
About 1.25 -1.5m stretch fabric (I used viscose lycra)
All the usual sewing stuff

Fold the fabric in half side edge to side edge, with the right side of the fabric facing in. Use a dress/skirt/top that fits comfortably to give you a guideline of where to cut. When in doubt cut a little wider than what you expect. Also, remember to allow about 2cm for seams.
I used the dress that I made here, as well as the skirt pattern that I cut when making that dress. You do not have to cut precisely (stretchy fabric also makes this virtually impossible!).

Cut and pin

Now because it's easier to cut it a little bit wider and then correct, I tacked along the edge and then put it on and loosely retacked where I wanted it to be a bit smaller, while it was still on.
This shows you how far out I was with my initial cut, and how much better the final product will be if you just take a few extra minutes to retack.

Sew along the tacking lines.

I only decided later to add on a piece of fabric at the top, so that it would be able to be foldover, but not show a raw seam when it was folded. Hence, the colour of the dress will now change (explained in my next post).

Cut two pieces of fabric the width of the top of the dress when inside out (allow for seams) and about 25cm high.  (*You can angle the cut a bit so that it narrows towards to top edge, to allow it to fit well below the bust once it is folded over.) It is very important that the fabric is cut as if it being wrapped around you with the sides of the fabric running down your sides (i.e. the salvage running down your side, 25cm side parallel to the salvage). If you cut it the wrong way it will not have as much stretch and is then quite tight.
Sew the sides of the top section, turn it right side out and place it inside the bottom section, with right sides of the top and bottom sections together. (*If you have made one edge narrower, then ensure that the wider edge is lined up with the top of the bottom section.)

Pin the top to the bottom and sew them together. (I failed to take a photo here, sorry)

To wear fold the top section inside the bottom section and then fold it over. (This added piece ensures that you don't have any raw seams showing.)

To strengthen the ends of the seams, I did a few simple (and messy) hand stitches in the seam.


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